Ratapoil + Avis de Tempete
Jura & Loire Valley, France
Nestled in the bucolic heart of the Jura, Domaine Ratapoil has carved out a distinctive niche in the ever-evolving natural wine scene. Established in 2009 by Raphaël Monnier, a former history teacher, and his wife Estelle, the estate is the culmination of 15+ years of passionate winemaking that began as a side project with Raphaël's childhood friend, Jean-Baptiste Ménigoz of Les Bottes Rouge. The name "Ratapoil" itself, is a playful nod to local slang reflecting the Monnier's outsider status in the traditional wine world, embodying the spirit of hobbyist winemakers & newcomers who thrive in the region.
Since moving to an old farm just outside Arc-et-Senans in 2000, the Monniers have cultivated 2 hectares of vineyards, embracing organic farming & biodynamic practices. Their unique holdings include a mixed parcel near Buffard, home to rare native varietals from 60+ year old vines, which yield a fruit-forward red blend aptly named Le Ratapoil Rouge & the white counterpart, Le Ratapoil Blanc. Their Arbois Ploussard & Trousseau grapes are sourced from prime sites like Les Corvées & En Paradis, while the whites, including Chardonnay & Savagnin, flourish in the limestone & clay-rich soils of Vadans.
The Monniers’ garage winery, tucked just through the kitchen door, is a testament to their hands-on approach. Raphaël's winemaking philosophy favours minimal intervention; the wines begin their journey in small stainless steel tanks before transitioning into oak for whites. He harbours aspirations of someday using foudres for his reds, but for now, they largely reside in tank & amphora, allowing the terroir to shine through without the influence of heavy artefact.
The vineyard holding's modest size & the challenges of frost-prone vintages have shaped a kaleidoscope of diverse, expressive wines that evolve year by year. For instance, in the generous 2011 vintage, they produced around 90 hectoliters (12,000 bottles), whereas for example the smaller 2012 & 2013 vintages combined yielded less than half of that. Along with more & growing challenging vintages in recent years - the cause & effect has resulted in the multi-regional négoce label 'Avis de Tempëte', or Storm Warning, in collaboration with protégé & vigneronne, Marie Bourdon.
Raphaël’s explorative spirit is evident in his winemaking, with recent experiments involving infusion-style macerations & the use of clay amphorae. His attention to detail & willingness to innovate has garnered a devoted following among natural wine aficionados who appreciate the authenticity of his offerings. The wines resonate with depth & complexity, embodying the terroir of Jura — a region known for its limestone plateaus, clay & marl soils, which create an ideal canvas for native varietals like Trousseau, Ploussard, Savagnin & Chardonnay.
As Jura continues to gain recognition within the natural wine movement, producers like Raphaël Monnier stand forefront, crafting wines that are unfiltered & in lieu of additions, thereby showcasing vibrant, living reflections of their surroundings. The complexity & minerality found in these wines, paired with bright acidity, not only reflect the unique soil composition but also embody a philosophy rooted in authenticity & innovation. This dynamic interplay between tradition & modernity positions Jura — and Domaine Ratapoil — firmly on the global wine stage, capturing the hearts of both enthusiasts & connoisseurs alike.
